In the words of Keith Richards, “You don’t find a style. A style finds you.” And on the FW1718 men’s catwalks earlier this year, oversized clothes and ‘90s flashbacks walked the runway in search of their clotheshorses.
Quilted looks were apparent at Dries Van Noten and Zegna, and this padded effect continued into the on-trend comfortwear on other runways.
Comfortwear was found in exaggerated sizes such as padded jackets at Balenciaga and Rick Owens, snow suits at Moncler Gamme Bleu, and tracksuits on Astrid Andersen and Lucien Pellat-Fintet – which Vogue attributed to the “MTV generation” taking the helm at large fashion houses. Fleece appeared at Dolce & Gabbana and No. 21.
Much easier for those of us in hotter climates to include in our repertoire are items adhering to ‘Normcore’ – normal looking clothes, a “bland anti-style,” which crept into fashion vocab in 2014, and continued on the fall/winter runways including at Vetements and Balenciaga. Discreet, anonymous and largely unidentifiable – we probably all already have many items adhering to this ‘style’ in our wardrobes.
Many runways looked back to the past with items such as ‘90s-style tracksuits, which have been making themselves known for a few seasons now, and for ‘80s nostalgia in particular, suits took it back – think looser tailoring, which has been appearing for a few seasons – with large shirts and pants, and long ties. Broad-shouldered, double-breasted choices appeared at Dries Van Noten, Versace and Balenciaga, and the oversized pants, often pleated for a full ‘80s effect, also featured on their own at Louis Vuitton, J.W. Anderson and Casely-Hayford.
As seen in suits, oversized proportions appeared in other areas such as T-shirts and hoodies, often paired with more slimline pieces to balance out the look.
Prada and Fendi also featured cardigans and fur of the 1970s and corduroy made a big comeback, reminiscent of the ‘Me decade.’ Dior Homme and Dries Van Noten looked back even further, bringing back the rocker style of the 1950s to today’s catwalks.
Red appeared a lot on both men’s and women’s runways, and orange was also the new black, popping up regularly including at Dior Homme and Givenchy. Moss green was a popular and refreshing choice, especially at Fendi and Valentino, in both streetwear and in smarter apparel.